
Tequila Cured Gravlax with Monique Barbeau
Special | 24m 53sVideo has Closed Captions
Chef Monique Barbeau makes tequila cured gravlax with dill pancakes.
Hailing from the salmon capital of America, Chef Monique Barbeau makes tequila cured gravlax with dill pancakes.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback

Tequila Cured Gravlax with Monique Barbeau
Special | 24m 53sVideo has Closed Captions
Hailing from the salmon capital of America, Chef Monique Barbeau makes tequila cured gravlax with dill pancakes.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Visit the Julia Child Experience
Get recipes, watch hundreds of episodes of her classic shows, read tributes from celebrity chefs, and more. Bon appetit!HELLO, I'M JULIA CHILD.
WELCOME TO MY HOUSE AND TO MY KITCHEN AND TO ANOTHER CULINARY ADVENTURE WITH ONE OF AMERICA'S MASTER CHEFS.
FROM THE STATE OF WASHINGTON, THE SALMON CAPITAL OF AMERICA MY GUEST TODAY IS CHEF MONIQUE BARBEAU FROM FULLERS RESTAURANT IN SEATTLE.
CHEF MONIQUE BARBEAU IS GOING TO DO US A TEQUILA CURED GRAVLAX.
THAT'S A CURED SALMON AND THIS IS HER OWN SPECIAL RECIPE.
YES, A RECIPE THAT I'VE HAD FOR A FEW YEARS.
AND IT TAKES MANY STEPS, BUT THEY'RE ALL VERY SIMPLE.
BASICALLY, YOU WANT TO START WITH A HALF SIDE OF SALMON, AND... DOES IT HAVE ITS SKIN ON?
YEAP.
SKIN HAS TO BE ON BECAUSE THAT WILL HELP PROTECT THE SALMON DURING THE THREE DAY CURING PROCESS.
THE FIRST THING YOU HAVE TO BE AWARE OF IS THE PIN BONES WHICH TRAVEL DOWN THE SIDE OF THE SALMON.
AND IF YOU LIGHTLY ROLL YOUR FINGERS OVER THEM YOU CAN FEEL THEM.
DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU HAVE AT HOME YOU CAN EITHER USE LITTLE PLIERS.
AND YOU JUST HAVE TO PULL THEM IN THE SAME DIRECTION THAT THEY'RE EMBEDDED IN THE SALMON.
AND THEY JUST COME OUT VERY EASILY.
OTHERWISE, THAT WILL MAKE IT VERY HARD TO SLICE.
EXACTLY, AND IF YOU MISS THEM WHEN YOU'RE SLICING THEY'RE NOT VERY PALATABLE EITHER.
SO, AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE PLIERS A SPOON WORKS RATHER WELL.
AND WHAT YOU NEED TO DO IS JUST USING THE BACK-SIDE OF THE SPOON AND YOUR THUMB... WELL, THAT'S A GOOD IDEA.
JUST PULL, THEY GET KIND OF SLIPPERY WITH YOUR... GO OUT AND BUY SOME PLIERS I WOULD SAY.
I WOULD SAY SO.
BUT IT DOES WORK IF YOU'RE EVER IN A BIND.
IT DOES WORK, YEAH.
SO ONCE YOU'VE REMOVED THE PIN BONES YOU'RE READY TO START THE FIRST CURE.
BASICALLY, ALL IT IS, IS TWO PARTS BROWN SUGAR TO ONE PART KOSHER SALT.
THE SUGAR AND THE SALT ACT AS A WAY TO COOK THE FISH.
SO IT'S JUST THE COMBINATION THAT EXTRACTS THE MOISTURE OUT OF THE FISH AND MAKES IT THE TEXTURE OF A GRAVLAX.
BUT IT DOESN'T GIVE YOU A SWEET SALMON?
NOT PARTICULARLY BECAUSE YOU HAVE SO MUCH ACID IN THE SECOND STAGE THAT IT REALLY DOESN'T MAKE IT SWEET AT ALL.
SO YOU WANT TO MIX THESE TWO INGREDIENTS TOGETHER.
THAT'S TWO SUGAR TO ONE SALT?
TWO PART SUGAR BY VOLUME TO ONE PART SALT.
MIX IT WITH YOUR IMPECCABLY CLEAN BARE HANDS.
THAT'S RIGHT.
SO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS MAKE A BED OF THIS CURING MIXTURE.
ABOUT A QUARTER INCH THICK ON THE BASE OF THE COOKIE SHEET PAN.
THAT'S PLASTIC WRAP YOU'VE GOT THERE.
YEAH, A LITTLE PLASTIC WRAP AND THAT WILL SORT OF ADD TO HOLD THE SALMON IN PLACE AND ALSO WILL HOLD THE JUICES.
BECAUSE THE SALMON'S GOING TO EXTRACT ALL ITS MOISTURE IN THE NEXT 24 HOURS.
SO A NICE BED, MAKING SURE IT'S LONG ENOUGH TO HOLD THE LENGTH OF THE FILET.
OF COURSE, THEY DO A LOT OF SALMON CURING IN SEATTLE, DON'T THEY?
A LOT OF SALMON OF EVERYTHING IN SEATTLE.
EVERYTHING, YEAH.
BUT WE'RE VERY FORTUNATE TO HAVE WONDERFUL SALMON OUT THERE.
IT'S FUN AS A CHEF TO THINK OF NEW WAYS TO COOK WITH IT.
WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS LAY THE FLESH-SIDE DOWN ON THIS QUARTER INCH BED OF CURE.
AND THAT'S GOING TO BE ITS HOME FOR THE NEXT 24 HOURS.
AND THEN YOU WANT TO SORT OF JUST GIVE IT A LITTLE BIT OF ADDED CURE ON THE SIDE.
AND THIS WILL JUST HELP QUICKEN ITS CURING PROCESS.
YOU DON'T WANT TO FORGET ABOUT THE ENDS.
BECAUSE THOSE NEED TO BE CURED ALSO.
SOMETIMES THE TAIL NEEDS A LITTLE MORE, THERE.
AND THEN WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS JUST FOLD IT UP ON THE SIDES AND THEN THE END.
THE NEXT STEP IS BASICALLY IN THE REFRIGERATOR AND YOU ACTUALLY WANT TO WEIGH IT DOWN.
THAT WILL HELP PRESS DOWN THE SALMON AND IT WILL ALSO SPEED UP THE CURING PROCESS.
AND WHAT I DO- ANYTHING THAT GIVES A FLAT SURFACE ANY CANNED GOODS YOU HAVE THAT YOU DON'T NEED POTS AND PANS, AND JUST LET IT... JUST PUT THEM RIGHT ON THERE?
PUT A WEIGHT ON THERE AND THEN RIGHT INTO THE REFRIGERATOR.
THAT WILL BE THE FIRST PROCESS OF THE CURING.
WHAT IS IT ABOUT FIVE POUNDS YOU WANT OF THE WEIGHT?
FIVE WOULD BE SUFFICIENT.
OF EQUAL WEIGHT, THAT'S PLENTY.
SO THAT'S THE FIRST STAGE.
NOW THE SECOND STAGE.
THIS IS WHEN YOU START ADDING FLAVORS TO MAKE IT UNIQUE.
AND TEQUILA IS ONE OF THE INGREDIENTS IN THE CURE.
WELL THAT'S SOMETHING NEW.
WELL YEAH.
INSTEAD OF, A LOT OF PEOPLE USE VODKA.
BUT I THOUGHT TEQUILA ONE OF MY FAVORITE DRINKS.
SO I USE TEQUILA IN IT.
IT ACTS AS A NICE COMPLEMENT TO THE LIME JUICE.
...ABOUT HALF A CUP OF... ABOUT HALF A CUP OF TEQUILA WITH ABOUT A HALF CUP OF LIME JUICE.
FRESH LIME JUICE?
FRESH LIME JUICE.
IT'S VERY IMPORTANT.
YEAH.
I THINK IT, YOU NEED THE FRESHNESS.
IT ADDS A NICE ELEMENT.
NEXT, YOU NEED TO ZEST ONE LEMON AND ONE ORANGE.
AND THAT JUST MEANS THE COLORED PART OF THE PEEL.
YEAH, YOU DON'T WANT THE PIT.
THAT'S GOING TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF BITTERNESS TO ANYTHING WHEN YOU'RE ZESTING, SO JUST... ONE OF EACH.
ONE OF EACH.
THAT GETS ADDED TO YOUR LIQUID INGREDIENTS.
AND THERE YOU'VE GOT ONE OF EACH IN THERE.
EXACTLY.
THE NEXT COMPONENT YOU NEED IS SOME CORIANDER, ABOUT TWO TEASPOONS.
I LIKE TO CRACK IT MYSELF.
THAT WAY I GET MORE OF A RELEASE OF ITS FLAVOR.
AND I USE A HARD CUTTING BOARD.
AND SOME SORT OF POT OR A SAUTE PAN ACTS AS A NICE WAY TO CRUNCH THE CORIANDER SEEDS.
THAT RELEASES ALL OF THE FLAVOR.
EXACTLY.
ADD THAT TO IT.
SO NOW YOU HAVE YOUR LIQUID AND YOUR RIND.
AND THE HERBS I'VE CHOSEN FOR THIS CURE IS DILL, MINT, AND BASIL.
YOU WANT A COUPLE SPRIGS OF EACH.
DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE STEMS BECAUSE THEY DON'T NEED TO BE PICKED PERFECTLY.
SOME DILL, SOME MINT - ADDS A NICE SORT OF ELEMENT TO THE SALMON AND SOME BASIL.
AND WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS SORT OF ROUGHLY CHOP.
THAT'S JUST KIND OF A LITTLE HANDFUL OF EACH.
EXACTLY.
SO AFTER YOU'VE CHOPPED YOU CAN ADD THAT TO YOUR LIQUID AND MIX IT ALL AROUND.
NOW THIS IS ALL THE COMPONENTS THAT ARE GOING TO FLAVOR YOUR SALMON.
SO AFTER 24 HOURS OF THE FIRST CURE ALL THE JUICES HAVE BEEN RELEASED.
ISN'T THAT INTERESTING.
THERE'S THAT MUCH IN IT.
THE SALMON HAS GOTTEN DARKER IN COLOR.
YES IT HAS.
BECAUSE IT'S LOST ALL ITS MOISTURE AND IT'S VERY FIRM TO THE TOUCH.
IT'S NO LONGER FLESHY; IT HAS A TOTALLY DIFFERENT TEXTURE, BUT NOT A LOT OF FLAVOR.
SO WHAT YOU CAN DO JULIA IS JUST LAYER THIS CLEAN SHEET PAN WITH SOME PLASTIC WRAP.
THAT WILL HOLD THE JUICES FOR THE NEXT FEW HOURS.
I THINK THAT'S PERFECT.
OKAY.
YOU WANT TO POUR YOUR LIQUID INGREDIENTS INTO THE PAN.
AND KIND OF WANT TO MAKE A BED OF THE HERBS AND THE RIND.
THEN YOU WANT TO PUT A LITTLE MORE OF YOUR CURE ON THE BOTTOM.
BECAUSE ALTHOUGH IT'S CURED ENOUGH IT NEEDS A LITTLE BIT MORE TO RELEASE ITS MOISTURE.
AND THEN ONCE AGAIN, FLESH-SIDE DOWN.
YOU WANT TO LAY IT ON THE BED THAT YOU'VE JUST CREATED OF ALL OF THE AROMATICS.
AND ONCE AGAIN SORT OF PAT THE REMAINING SIDES.
YOU DON'T NEED AS MUCH CURE NOW BECAUSE IT'S PRETTY MUCH CURED.
THE ACID OF THE LIME AND THE LEMON WILL CONTINUE TO COOK THE SALMON.
SO YOU DON'T WANT TO FORGET THE ENDS.
PUT A LITTLE BIT OF CURE ON THE ENDS.
AND ONCE AGAIN YOU'RE GOING TO TIGHTEN IT UP WITH THE PLASTIC WRAP.
THIS WAY IT'S SITTING IN ALL THE FRESH CITRUS JUICES.
WE'LL JUST TUCK THE ENDS UP - GET THAT IN THERE - YOU WANT TO KEEP IT TIGHT.
SO ONCE YOU'VE FINISHED THIS STAGE YOU WANT TO WEIGH IT DOWN AGAIN.
THEN YOU PUT IT BACK IN THE FRIDGE FOR 24 HOURS.
A CURED PIECE OF SALMON.
NOW AFTER THIS PROCESS THERE'S A FEW THINGS YOU WANT TO LOOK AT.
YOU WANT TO JUST TURN IT OVER.
AS YOU CAN SEE, THERE'S SOME AREAS WHERE THE CITRUS HAS ACTUALLY SORT OF COOKED IT.
IT'S GOTTEN A LITTLE WHITE ON TOP.
AS LONG AS IT'S FIRM TO THE TOUCH OBVIOUSLY THE TAIL PIECE IS GOING TO BE A LITTLE FIRMER BECAUSE IT'S NOT AS THICK AS THE OTHER AREA OF THE SALMON.
ONCE IT'S FIRM TO THE TOUCH, IT'S DONE.
AND WHAT YOU CAN DO IS IT DOESN'T NEED TO SIT IN ANY MORE CURING LIQUID.
IT CAN BE REMOVED AND PLACED ON THE CUTTING BOARD.
IF YOU COULD JUST REMOVE THAT SORT OF MIXTURE THERE.
AND NOW YOU'RE LEFT WITH THE CURED PIECE OF SALMON.
SO I LIKE TO CUT OFF THE BELLY PIECE BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT CAUSES THE SLICING TO BE A LITTLE MORE DIFFICULT.
SO WE GET RID OF THAT, AND... I GUESS THAT CAN BE EATEN?
THAT IS WONDERFUL.
THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE PARTS OF THE SALMON.
FULL OF THE FAT YOU CAN SEE AND IT'S VERY TASTY.
BASICALLY, I ALWAYS START AT THE TAIL END.
I FIND THAT EASIER.
NOW YOU HAVE THE SKIN ON SO, AS YOU SLICE WHAT YOU REALLY WANT TO DO IS WITH A VERY SHARP THIN KNIFE THIN LONG STROKES.
AND YOU'RE LEFT... AND AS YOU CAN SEE, THE SALMON IS BEAUTIFUL RED.
IT IS ABSOLUTELY... I HAVE A PLATE HERE I CAN START DISPLAYING SOME OF THIS ON IT.
YOU HAVE BEAUTIFUL RED SALMON.
AND YOU JUST WANT TO SCRAPE THE KNIFE ALONG THE SKIN.
THAT WILL GIVE YOU A NICE BIAS CUT PIECE OF SALMON.
YOU CAN TELL IT'S CURED ALL THE WAY THROUGH WHERE THE TEXTURE HAS CHANGED QUITE DRAMATICALLY.
THIS HAS TURNED QUITE A DARK RED, ISN'T IT?
UM HUM.
IT'S TAKEN ON QUITE... YEAH WITH THE RELEASE OF ALL ITS MOISTURE THE SALMON IS LEFT WITH... YOU DO LITTLE SLICES, NOT GREAT BIG LONG ONES.
I LIKE TO, DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU DO WITH IT BUT I, THEY GET LONGER AS YOU GET DOWN THE FISH.
BUT SOMETHING LIKE THAT I FIND IS AMPLE IN SIZE AND IT'S PERFECTLY UNIFORM.
SO YOU CAN DO OTHER THINGS, YOU KNOW.
DISPLAY IT OTHER WAYS.
CAN I HAVE A LITTLE TASTE?
NEXT SLICE IS YOURS.
JUST GIVE ME AN ITTY BIT.
THAT HAS A DIFFERENT TASTE THAN THE NORWEGIAN GRAVLAX.
I KNOW IT HAS A SLIGHTLY SWEET AND IT TASTES COOKED.
YES.
I THINK, HERE IT IS RAW, BUT... WE'RE GOING TO BE SERVING THIS WITH A DILL PANCAKE SO IT WILL COMPLEMENT THAT VERY NICELY ALSO.
I THINK THAT'S DELICIOUS, MONIQUE.
GREAT.
THANK YOU.
YOU'VE GOT AN AWFUL LOT OF STUFF HERE.
THIS IS CALLED MIS EN PLACE.
IT MEANS THAT EVERYTHING IS IN ITS PLACE.
SO WHEN YOU'RE AT HOME AND YOU HAVE A LOT OF DIFFERENT INGREDIENTS.
IF YOU'VE PREPPED THEM AND PREPARED THEM COOKING IS SIMPLE.
THIS IS WHAT YOU ALWAYS DO IN THE RESTAURANT.
THAT'S CORRECT.
AND YOU DON'T GET MIXED UP.
THAT'S RIGHT.
SO WHAT ARE WE GOING TO DO NOW?
ACCOMPANYING THE SALMON AND THE DILL PANCAKES WE'RE GOING TO MAKE A HOMEMADE TOMATO CREME FRAICHE.
OH, GOOD.
IT'S JUST REDUCING TOMATOES TO A PASTE INSTEAD OF BUYING THE CANNED TOMATO PASTE.
ESPECIALLY IN THE SUMMERTIME IT'S GREAT TO USE TOMATOES BECAUSE THEY'RE SO FRESH.
YOU JUST WANT TO SWEAT SOME SHALLOTS AND GARLIC OVER A MEDIUM FLAME.
WHAT HAVE WE GOT, ABOUT ONE OF EACH?
ABOUT ONE OF EACH, ABOUT A TABLESPOON OF EACH.
YEAH.
AND WITH ABOUT TWO TABLESPOONS OF OIL IN THE PAN AND YOU'RE GOING TO START TO SMELL.
YOU DON'T WANT TO CARAMELIZE IT YOU JUST WANT TO LIGHTLY SAUTE.
UM HUM.
AND THEN YOU WANT TO ADD YOUR TOMATOES.
NOW TOMATOES NEED TO BE PEELED, AND DE-SEEDED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED.
SO YOU WANT TO DUMP THOSE IN.
AND THEY HAVE A LOT OF WATER IN THE TOMATOES SO YOU WANT TO COOK IT SLOWLY OVER A MEDIUM-HIGH HEAT UNTIL ALL THE MOISTURE IS RELEASED.
I'M ALWAYS INTERESTED IN PROFESSIONAL CHEFS USING THESE LITTLE TINY SPOONS.
WE'D ALWAYS HAVE A GREAT BIG SPOON.
I GUESS YOU DON'T HAVE THEM IN THE KITCHEN.
NO, THEY'RE ALWAYS HANDY.
I LIKE LITTLE SPOONS.
THAT WAY YOU CAN ALWAYS GRAB THEM AND COOK WITH THEM.
SO WHILE THAT'S COOKING DOWN ANOTHER COMPONENT WOULD BE... I CAN WATCH IT FOR YOU.
YOU CAN WATCH THAT JUST UNTIL... THERE'S ONLY ONE MORE INGREDIENT THAT NEEDS TO GO INTO FINISH THAT THE CREME FRAICHE.
VERY SIMPLE, A LOT OF DIFFERENT VARIATIONS.
YOU CAN EITHER USE SOUR CREAM IF YOU DON'T WANT TO GO TO THE TROUBLE OF MAKING CREME FRAICHE OR YOU CAN BUY.
WE'RE NOT TALKING ABOUT TROUBLE WE'RE TALKING ABOUT GREAT COOKING.
AND NOTHING IS TOO MUCH TROUBLE.
SO NEVER SAY THAT.
I AGREE WITH YOU.
YEAH, I ALWAYS THINK THE EXTRA EFFORT COMES IN THE RESULTS OF YOUR DISH.
THAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PLAIN COOKING AND GREAT COOKING.
RIGHT.
SO I GO ALWAYS THE EXTRA STEP AND THAT'S WITH MAKING MY HOMEMADE CREME FRAICHE.
BUT YOU CAN BUY IT IF YOU NEED TO.
AND YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE SOUR CREAM IF NEED BE.
SO BASICALLY, WHAT YOU NEED TO DO IS JUST GET TWO TABLESPOONS OF BUTTERMILK AND MIX IT WITH ABOUT A CUP AND A HALF OF HEAVY CREAM.
AND YOU JUST WANT TO MIX THAT WITH A SPOON AND LEAVE IT AT ROOM TEMPERATURE, COVERED.
A LITTLE TINY SPOON LIKE THAT.
ALWAYS A TINY SPOON.
LEAVE IT COVERED FOR ABOUT 24 HOURS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE.
AND THE NEXT DAY IT WILL RESEMBLE THIS CONSISTENCY.
THEN YOU WANT TO PUT IT IN THE REFRIGERATOR.
AND SO AFTER YOU PUT IT IN THE FRIDGE YOU'RE GOING TO GET... IT'S GOING TO SETTLE UP A LITTLE BIT OVERNIGHT.
AND YOU'RE GOING TO GET MORE OF A... OH YES.
OF A RESEMBLANCE OF CREME FRAICHE.
THAT'S ALL GOING TO BE MIXED WITH THE FRESH TOMATO PASTE WHICH IS COOKING NICELY.
NOW THIS HAS BEEN COOKING FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES.
ALL THE LIQUID HAS BEEN REDUCED AND THERE WAS A LOT OF LIQUID AS YOU SAW.
NOW YOU WANT TO ADD ABOUT A QUARTER CUP OF RED WINE VINEGAR.
THE ACID IN THE VINEGAR WILL COMPLEMENT THE SWEETNESS OF THE TOMATOES THIS TIME OF YEAR.
AND THEN YOU WANT TO CONTINUE COOKING FOR ABOUT TWO OR THREE MORE MINUTES UNTIL YOU GET A NICE PASTE.
SO ONCE THE VINEGAR HAS REDUCED YOU'VE GOTTEN A NICE PASTE.
THAT REALLY IS A PASTE ISN'T IT?
YEAH.
HOMEMADE TOMATO PASTE.
YEAP.
AND WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS STRAIN IT.
SO THIS IS WHAT IT WILL LOOK LIKE ONCE IT HAS BEEN STRAINED.
THE ODD SEED WOULD BE GONE AND IT WILL BE... YOU'D WANT TO PUT IT IN THE FRIDGE AND COOL IT DOWN RIGHT AWAY.
AND THEN YOU'D WANT TO MIX IT WITH SOME CREME FRAICHE OR SOUR CREAM, WHATEVER YOU'D PREFER.
YOU WANT ABOUT A CUP OR SO MIXED WITH THIS MIXTURE.
THE BEST WAY TO MEASURE IT IS JUST THE COLOR.
YOU WANT IT STILL NICE AND RED BECAUSE... THAT'S GOING TO ACCENT REALLY PRETTY ON THE PLATE.
TOO MUCH, AND IT WON'T BE RED?
YEAH, EXACTLY.
THAT LOOKS NICE.
...VERY CONCENTRATED TOMATO PASTE WITH YOUR CREME FRAICHE.
YOU WANT TO PUT THAT IN THE FRIDGE AND KEEP IT COOL UNTIL YOU'RE READY TO USE IT.
I'LL TAKE A LITTLE TASTE OF THAT NOW.
A LITTLE ROSY, ORANGE-Y PINK COLOR.
THAT'S VERY NICE.
THAT WILL COMPLEMENT THE SALMON.
NOW WHAT?
SO THAT GOES IN... NOW WHAT WE WANT TO START THE SAVORY DILL PANCAKES.
IT'S A VERY STANDARD BATTER RECIPE.
WHAT WE HAVE IS THE FLOUR.
WHAT KIND OF FLOUR YOU GOT?
I USE ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR.
A CUP AND A QUARTER OR SO OF FLOUR.
GOOD.
AND A TEASPOON OF CUMIN.
YOU WANT TO PUT ALL YOUR DRY INGREDIENTS IN FIRST TWO TEASPOONS BAKING POWDER.
IT'S ALWAYS GOOD TO LEVEL THIS OFF BECAUSE YOU DON'T NEED TOO, MORE THAN THAT.
BECAUSE IT ALWAYS TASTES IF THERE'S TOO MUCH, ISN'T THERE?
IT'S VERY DISTASTEFUL.
IT'S ONE OF THE WORST FLAVORS.
AND WE SHOULD GET A WHISK GOING HERE.
AND YOU JUST WANT TO SLOWLY ADD THE MILK - APPROXIMATELY ONE CUP.
AND THIS JUST GETS YOUR BATTER GOING.
A LITTLE MORE, THERE.
JUST GIVE IT A QUICK WHISK.
ABOUT A HALF CUP OF CUCUMBERS BECAUSE THAT WILL STAY CRUNCHY AND ADD TO THE SALMON FLAVOR.
AND SOME DICED RED ONION, ABOUT HALF A CUP.
AND THEN YOU WANT TO ADD GREEN ONIONS OR SCALLIONS THINLY SLICED ON THE BIAS.
YEAH, WITH THOSE YOU'VE SLICED THE TIPS TOO.
THE TIPS TOO, YEAP.
EVERYTHING.
EVERYTHING, YEAP.
AGAIN, INCORPORATE ALL THAT.
NOW THE... THERE ARE NO EGGS IN THIS?
NO EGGS, NOPE.
AND THEN YOU WANT SOME CHOPPED DILL IN THERE.
SO ONCE YOU'VE ADDED THE DILL, QUITE FINELY CHOPPED JUST ADD THAT IN THERE.
ABOUT A QUARTER CUP OF FRESH CHOPPED DILL.
THEN YOU NEED TO FINISH IT OFF WITH A LITTLE BIT... I'M GOING TO ADD A TAD MORE MILK IT WAS A CUP- BUT I THINK MAYBE A CUP AND A TOUCH.
YOU HAVE TO DO IT BY EYE ANYWAY, DON'T YOU?
YEAH, YOU NEED TO LEARN TO SORT OF ACCOMMODATE CHANGES AND THINGS.
SO THE BATTER'S A NICE CONSISTENCY.
YOU KNOW IT'S GOING TO MAKE A NICE PANCAKE.
AND YOU NEED TO SEASON IT WITH A LITTLE SALT AND PEPPER.
I WAS JUST GOING TO ASK IF YOU WERE GOING TO PUT A LITTLE SALT IN.
I LOVE FRESH GROUND PEPPER.
THERE WERE SIX GRINDS.
YEAP.
AND ONLY ABOUT A QUARTER TO A HALF TEASPOON OF SALT BECAUSE THE GRAVLAX HAS QUITE A UNIQUE CHARACTER.
THAT'S RIGHT.
AND THEN I ALSO PUT SOME A FEW OTHER ACCOMPANIMENTS THAT MIGHT BE A LITTLE SALTY.
SO I TRY TO KEEP YOUR SALT LOWER.
YOU HAVE TO DO THIS AHEAD OF TIME?
THIS IS GREAT TO BE DONE AHEAD OF TIME.
IF YOU CAN PUT IT IN THE FRIDGE FOR ABOUT SIX HOURS THE BAKING POWDER WILL MAKE YOUR PANCAKES RISE UP LITTLE MORE, AND THEY'LL BE A LITTLE FLUFFIER.
SO THIS IS THE RECIPE FOR THE SAVORY-DILL PANCAKE BATTER.
AND WE'LL KEEP THIS IN THE FRIDGE UNTIL WE'RE READY TO MAKE THEM.
WELL THAT'S WONDERFUL THEN.
YOU'VE GOT EVERYTHING JUST ABOUT DONE.
ALMOST COMPLETED, YEAP.
THE LAST SORT OF COMPONENT WILL BE THE FRESH WATERCRESS OIL.
NOW THE WATERCRESS OIL IS SORT OF MUSTARDY AND PEPPERY SO IT ADDS A VERY NICE SORT OF FLAVOR TO THE WHOLE DISH.
I'VE PRETTY MUCH JUICED ONE BUNCH OF WATERCRESS.
YOU WANT TO DO THE JUICING RIGHT BEFORE YOU MAKE THE OLIVE OIL SO IT DOESN'T DISCOLOR.
YOU'RE KEEPING IT OVER ICE, I SEE.
I FIND THAT IT MAKES A BETTER EMULSION.
THE OILS SEEM TO BLEND BETTER WITH THIS THE WATERCRESS OIL IF IT'S LEFT VERY COLD.
SO YOU WANT ABOUT A TABLESPOON OF LEMON JUICE WHICH YOU CAN JUST... I PRETTY MUCH GO BY JUST LOOKS.
BUT A TABLESPOON OR SO OF LEMON JUICE.
SLOWLY WHISK IN SOME OLIVE OIL.
I LIKE TO DO A CRAZY EIGHT PATTERN WITH MY WHISK.
YEAH.
AND THAT WAY I GET ALL THE SURFACE OF THE BOWL.
YOU JUST WANT TO DRIZZLE THE OLIVE OIL IN SLOWLY.
AND EVEN THAT KEEPS IT IN SUSPENSION REALLY.
EXACTLY.
BEING SO COLD.
HOW DID YOU MAKE THE WATERCRESS JUICE?
PUT IT IN THE BLENDER?
BLENDER YOU CAN DO.
THEN YOU CAN USE A CHEESECLOTH TO STRAIN IT OUT.
BUT IF YOU HAVE A JUICER AT HOME A LOT OF HOUSEHOLDS HAVE JUICERS NOW.
AND IT'S JUST AS EASY TO DO IT IN THERE.
NOW YOU WANT TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE A VINAIGRETTE.
AND THAT'S WHAT IT MOST RESEMBLES.
AND AS LONG AS IT'S, YOU KNOW... IT'S HOLDING.
IF IT'S HOLDING AND IT LOOKS A LITTLE MORE EMULSIFIED THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT.
IT TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF PEPPER, NOT TOO MUCH AND A LITTLE SALT, AND WHISK THAT TOGETHER.
AND THAT'S IT, ISN'T IT?
THAT'S IT.
AND JUST LIKE THE TOMATO CREME FRAICHE AND THE BATTER YOU WANT TO KEEP ALL THESE INGREDIENTS REFRIGERATED UNTIL YOU'RE READY TO PROCEED WITH THE NEXT STEP.
GOOD.
NOW WE'RE FINALLY ABOUT TO SERVE THE SALMON.
THE LAST COMPONENT WILL BE THE DEEP-FRIED CAPERS.
I'VE NEVER HAD THEM BEFORE.
THEY ADD A NICE CRUNCHY, SALTY SOUR COMPONENT TO THE DISH.
THESE ARE JUST PLAIN OLD CAPERS PACKED IN VINEGAR.
YEAP, EXACTLY.
THE BUDS OF THE FLOWER THAT GROWS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN.
I ALWAYS LIKE TO TRY WITH ONE TO SEE BEFORE WE RUIN THE WHOLE BATCH BUT YOU CAN TELL THE OIL IS HOT ENOUGH.
YEAH.
AND I LIKE TO DRAIN THEM ON A PAPER TOWEL.
AND GENTLY SORT OF DROP THEM IN AND STAND BACK BECAUSE THEY ARE GOING TO SPIT OUT A LITTLE BIT.
THEY DON'T TAKE VERY LONG, ABOUT 30 SECONDS.
AND THEY'RE ALL RISING TO THE TOP.
THAT MEANS THEY'RE DONE, I GUESS.
YEAP, THEY COME TO THE TOP AND AS YOU CAN SEE, THE BUDS OPEN UP AND FLOWER OPPOSED TO THE ONES THAT JUST COME OUT OF THE BRINE.
SO, THEY'RE VERY CRUNCHY.
NOW YOU CAN MAKE THIS NO MORE THAN A DAY AHEAD BECAUSE THEY WILL LOSE THEIR FRESHNESS.
YEAH.
BUT THEY'VE OPENED UP AND YOU CAN SEE THE NICE LITTLE FLOWERING BUDS.
YEAH, YOU CAN.
THOSE ARE DELICIOUS, THEY ARE SALTY.
IT COMPLEMENTS THE SALMON OPPOSED TO USING LEMON.
SO NOW WE NEED TO HEAT A PAN.
THIS IS A NON-STICK, BUT I LIKE TO USE A LITTLE BIT OF OIL BECAUSE THEN YOU GET A NICE GOLDEN COLOR ON THE PANCAKES.
YOU'RE JUST FILMING IT.
IS THAT OLIVE OIL OR VEGETABLE OIL?
OLIVE OIL.
THIS HAS RESTED OVERNIGHT SO THE BAKING POWDER SHOULD ACTIVATE A LITTLE BIT AND MAKE THE PANCAKES A LITTLE PUFFY.
ALL THESE COMPONENTS CAN BE MADE SEPARATELY OR TOGETHER.
THE SALMON CAN STAND ON ITS OWN.
SOMETIMES I MAKE THIS PANCAKE VERY LITTLE FOR LITTLE CANAPES IF I'M ENTERTAINING.
BUT IF IT'S GOING TO BE FOR AN APPETIZER-SIZE PORTION I LIKE TO MAKE THEM ABOUT TWO INCHES IN DIAMETER.
NOW JUST LIKE COOKING PANCAKES I WAIT FOR THE BUBBLES TO APPEAR.
YEAH.
AND THEN I KNOW THAT I CAN FLIP THEM OVER.
IT'S INTERESTING THAT THERE'S NO EGGS IN THIS AT ALL.
YEAH, IT IS EGGLESS AND IT'S GOOD FOR PEOPLE WATCHING THEIR CHOLESTEROL TO NOT COOK WITH SO MUCH EGGS.
NICE GOLDEN BROWN.
I CAN'T WAIT TO TRY ONE.
I'VE NEVER HAD IT DONE UP WITH SO MUCH STUFF IN IT.
YOU'LL TASTE ALL THE STUFF.
YEAH.
AND SO YOU JUST LET THEM COOK ANOTHER MINUTE OR SO ON THE OTHER SIDE.
NOW I LIKE TO SERVE THESE WARM.
SO IF YOU'RE MAKING MORE THAN ONE SERVING WHICH IS PROBABLY THE CASE HAVE YOUR OVEN AT ABOUT 150, 200 DEGREES (F) .
KEEP THEM ON A COOKIE RACK AND THEY'LL STAY WARM.
OKAY NOW WE HAVE ALL THE COMPONENTS COMPLETED AND WE CAN ASSEMBLE THE PANCAKES.
FIRST, BEFORE YOU DO THAT I WANTED TO GO OVER THE SALMON SO I WON'T FORGET HOW TO DO IT.
NOW THE FIRST TIME YOU PUT IN THE SALT AND THE SUGAR.
THAT WAS TWO TIMES BROWN SUGAR TO ONE TIME SALT.
EXACTLY.
SPREAD IT ALL OVER, COVERED IT UP AND REFRIGERATED IT.
REFRIGERATE IT FOR 24 HOURS.
UNDER A WEIGHT?
UM HUM.
AND THEN THE NEXT TIME YOU ADDED ALL THAT... AROMATICS, CITRIC.
AROMATICS, AND THE TEQUILA... AND EVERYTHING ELSE.
EXACTLY.
AND A LITTLE BIT OF CURE AROUND THE SIDE JUST TO HELP IT OUT.
THEN PUT IT DOWN UNDER A WEIGHT AND REFRIGERATED IT.
AND THEN THE THIRD DAY YOU'RE READY TO EAT IT.
THIRD DAY IT'S READY TO GO.
YOU CAN JUST REMOVE IT FROM THE LIQUID KEEP IT WRAPPED AND IT LASTS AT LEAST UP TO TEN DAYS IN THE REFRIGERATOR.
BUT YOU JUST KEEP IT REFRIGERATED ALL THE TIME.
EXACTLY.
NOW YOU WANT TO START WITH ONE OF YOUR SAVORY PANCAKES.
I HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF MESCLUN.
YOU CAN USE ANY SORT OF GREENS.
I LIKE THE CRUNCHINESS AND THE CRISPINESS OF FRESH LETTUCE ESPECIALLY THIS TIME OF YEAR WHEN THEY'RE SO TENDER.
AND YOU JUST WANT TO PUT A LITTLE BED OF GREENS TO SORT OF GIVE IT SOME HEIGHT.
AND THEN A NICE PIECE OF YOUR CURED TEQUILA GRAVLAX WHICH CAN JUST GO ON LIKE THAT.
AND THEN I LIKE TO PUT THESE IN SQUIRT BOTTLES.
THIS IS NOT NECESSARY.
OH, THIS IS YOUR TOMATO CREME FRAICHE.
MY TOMATO CREME FRAICHE.
A LITTLE SORT OF FLAVORING OF THAT ON TOP.
A LITTLE WATERCRESS OIL.
NOW YOU CONTINUE THIS LAYER ONE MORE TIME.
I ALWAYS SAVE THE PRETTIEST PANCAKE FOR THE TOP SO.
YEAH.
ANOTHER LAYER ON TOP.
ONCE AGAIN, A FEW MORE GREENS.
AND ONCE AGAIN A NICE BIG SLICE... THAT'S A VERY NICE FIRST COURSE THAT IS.
A LITTLE MORE OF THE TOMATO CREME FRAICHE JUST TO SORT OF IT ACTUALLY ADHERES THE PANCAKE A LITTLE BIT TOO.
YEAH.
YOU'VE REALLY MADE RESTAURANT PORTIONS OF THESE TWO SAUCES.
WILL THEY KEEP IN THE FRIDGE?
OH, THEY DO KEEP IN THE FRIDGE.
THERE WE GO.
BALANCE THAT A LITTLE BIT SO YOU HAVE A NICE HIGH PANCAKE.
NOW I LIKE TO DESIGN THE PLATE A LITTLE BIT BECAUSE IT NEEDS, I DO A LITTLE... AND A FEW SQUIGGLES OF THE ACCOMPANYING SAUCES.
JUST WHEREVER YOU WANT AND YOU CAN GO.
AND THEN I LIKE THE DEEP-FRIED CAPERS.
YOU JUST WANT TO SORT OF FLOWER ON TOP IT GARNISHES THE PLATE.
AND THEN I JUST PUT A LITTLE BIT OF DILL SPRIG AROUND THE PLATE TO SORT OF BRING OUT SOME... WELL, THAT'S VERY PRETTY.
COLORS.
SO YOU HAVE A LOT OF TEXTURE YOU HAVE THE SALMON THE CRUNCHINESS OF THE LETTUCE IN IT AND THAT'S THE FINISHED DISH.
THAT'S VERY PRETTY.
AND THE NICE THING IS THAT YOU CAN GET ALL OF THESE THINGS ARRANGED AHEAD.
EXACTLY.
AND THEN IT'S SIMPLE TO ASSEMBLE IT.
IT'S SO QUICK AND EASY.
WELL THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
YOU'RE WELCOME.
WELL, YOU'VE BEEN VERY KIND TO COME AND GIVE US YOUR SECRET RECIPES REALLY.
IT'S ALWAYS MY PLEASURE TO SHARE THEM WITH YOU, TRUST ME.
I CERTAINLY WILL.
I THINK WE ALL REALLY APPRECIATE IT VERY MUCH.
WELL, GOOD.
I THANK YOU MONIQUE.
THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME, JULIA.
GOOD LUCK ON THE REST OF YOUR CAREER WHICH IS REALLY JUST AT ITS BEGINNING.
OH, I THANK YOU.
BON APPETIT.


- Food
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television
Transform home cooking with the editors of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine.












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