
Black Bean Tortilla Casserole with Rick Bayless
Special | 24m 54sVideo has Closed Captions
Chef Rick Bayless cooks some Mexican soul food, a black bean tortilla casserole.
Chef Rick Bayless cooks some Mexican soul food, a black bean tortilla casserole.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback

Black Bean Tortilla Casserole with Rick Bayless
Special | 24m 54sVideo has Closed Captions
Chef Rick Bayless cooks some Mexican soul food, a black bean tortilla casserole.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Visit the Julia Child Experience
Get recipes, watch hundreds of episodes of her classic shows, read tributes from celebrity chefs, and more. Bon appetit!HELLO, I'M JULIA CHILD.
WELCOME TO MY HOUSE AND TO MY KITCHEN AND TO ANOTHER CULINARY ADVENTURE WITH ONE OF AMERICA'S MASTER CHEFS.
JOINING ME TODAY IS ONE OF THE GREAT PRACTITIONERS OF MEXICAN COOKING IN THE U.S.A.
IT'S RICK BAYLESS... CHEF OWNER OF THE FRONTERA GRILL IN TOPOLOBAMPO, IN CHICAGO.
CHEF RICK BAYLESS IS GOING TO COOK US SOME MEXICAN SOUL FOOD FEATURING BLACK BEANS AND TORTILLAS.
YES, IT'S CALLED... WHAT'S IT GOING TO BE?
IT'S CALLED CHILAQUILES DE FRIJOL.
AND ANYTHING BASICALLY THAT IS MADE... THAT'S CALLED CHILAQUILES... MADE WITH TORTILLAS THAT ARE FIRST FRIED UNTIL CRISPY AND THEN SIMMERED IN A SAUCE IS JUST SOUL FOOD.
AND THIS PROBABLY IS THE MOST SOULFUL OF ALL OF THEM BECAUSE THE SAUCE IS NOT MADE FROM TOMATOES OR FROM TOMATILLOS IT'S MADE FROM BLACK BEANS.
AND THAT'S WHERE, OF COURSE, WE HAVE TO START WITH THE RECIPE.
I'VE ALREADY RINSED SOME BLACK BEANS.
WHEN YOU'RE WORKING WITH BLACK BEANS, OR PINK BEANS -- OR PINTO BEANS... YOU ALWAYS NEED TO CHECK OVER THEM TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE'S NO STONES IN THEM.
USUALLY THEY COME PRETTY CLEAN THESE DAYS.
BUT IF YOU BUY THEM IN BULK, ESPECIALLY LOOK AT THEM.
RINSE OFF ANY DUST.
AND THEY'LL GO INTO A SMALL SAUCE PAN WITH FIVE CUPS OF BROTH.
THIS COULD BE DONE WITH WATER IF YOU WANT.
HOW MANY CUPS OF BEANS DID YOU HAVE IN THERE?
ONE AND A QUARTER CUPS IS WHAT WE STARTED WITH.
SO WE'RE GOING TO PUT THAT ON WITH HALF OF A ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION.
THAT'S THE ONION MEXICANS ALWAYS USE I UNDERSTAND?
THE WHITE ONE IS ALWAYS USED IN MEXICAN COOKING.
IT'S GOT SUCH A CLEAN FLAVOR TO IT.
AND FOUR CLOVES OF GARLIC.
THESE ARE ALREADY PEELED.
I'M JUST GOING TO ROUGHLY CHOP THEM.
AND THEY DON'T HAVE TO BE CHOPPED TOO FINELY BECAUSE THEY WILL SORT OF COOK TO A REAL SOFTNESS AND THEN WE'RE GOING TO PUREE THEM TO MAKE THE BLACK BEAN SAUCE.
OH.
AND THAT WILL GO IN THERE.
NOW THE TWO MORE UNUSUAL INGREDIENTS HERE.
ONE IS THE CHILE CHIPOTLES THAT IS A JALAPENO THAT HAS BEEN ALLOWED TO RIPENED UNTIL ITS FULLY RED.
THEN IT IS DRIED OVER A SMOKEY FIRE AND IT PICKS UP THESE WONDERFUL, SMOKEY CHARACTERISTICS BUT IT'S ALSO QUITE HOT.
THEY COME TWO DIFFERENT WAYS.
ONE IS IN THE DRIED STATE AND THE OTHER IS IN A TOMATO-Y SAUCE CALLED AN ADOBO.
AND YOU CAN SEE THE STEM IS REMOVED.
IF YOU CUT IT IN HALF LIKE THAT -- YOU HAVE TO WATCH BECAUSE THEY'RE QUITE HOT.
IF YOU GET VERY MUCH OF IT ON YOUR FINGERS AND THEN TOUCH YOUR EYES FOR INSTANCE YOU REALLY WILL FEEL THAT BURN.
ARE YOU TAKING THE SEEDS OUT?
I SCRAPED THE SEED POD OUT.
AND THAT'S OVER THERE.
AND WE'LL PUT THAT ONE CHILE CHIPOTLE... JUST ONE IN THERE?
JUST ONE OF THEM IN THERE WE'LL COME BACK TO THAT IN JUST A LITTLE BIT BECAUSE WE'RE GOING TO USE IT AGAIN WHEN WE MAKE THE CHILAQUILES.
AND THEN, LASTLY, FOR A GARNISH IN THE DISH... A COUPLE OF TEASPOONS OF THIS... AND THAT'S A KIND OF... A GOOD TOMATO-Y... ...CHILE TOMATO.
YEAH, YOU KNOW, THIS IS REALLY GOOD IF YOU ADD IT TO BARBECUE SAUCE BECAUSE IT HAS THAT HEAT AND TOMATO FLAVOR.
A COUPLE OF TEASPOONS.
DOES THAT COME IN A CAN?
YES, WE USUALLY FIND IT IN A CAN.
THIS IS THE CAN THAT IT CAME IN.
YEAH.
AND THEN THE OTHER UNUSUAL INGREDIENT IS THE EPAZOTE.
EPAZOTE IS USED EXTENSIVELY IN CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN MEXICO I'VE ALWAYS HEARD OF IT.
AND SOMEONE SAID IT TOOK THE GAS OUT OF BEANS.
THAT'S, THAT'S WHAT THEY SAY.
IS THAT TRUE?
IT CERTAINLY IS THE LORE IN MEXICO THAT IT REALLY HELPS THAT WAY.
IN FACT, IT'S ONE OF THOSE SORT OF PUNGENT FLAVORS.
ONCE YOU GET USED TO THAT FLAVOR IT'S ONE YOU GO BACK TO OVER AND OVER AGAIN AND IN MANY WAYS IT CONGERS UP -- IT'S ALL OF THE FLAVORS OF MEXICO FOR ME.
IT GROWS VERY, VERY EASILY IN THE UNITED STATES AND... I DON'T... ...MOST PEOPLE PULL IT OUT OF THEIR GARDENS NOT KNOWING WHAT IT IS.
AND DO YOU THINK THAT IT DOES WHAT THEY SAY?
I THINK IT DOES, YEAH.
I THINK IT REALLY HELPS.
BLACK BEANS ARE ALWAYS COOKED WITH IT AND OCCASIONALLY IT'S USED IN ITS RAW FORM -- BUT USUALLY COOKED.
NOW, WE JUST PUT THE BRANCH IN THERE JUST LIKE THAT BECAUSE AS WITH THE ONIONS AND GARLIC IT'S GOING TO BE BLENDED INTO OUR FINAL SAUCE.
AND JUST ONE BRANCH WILL DO THE WORK?
JUST ONE BRANCH.
OH, YES, ABSOLUTELY.
IT TAKES A COUPLE OF HOURS TO COOK THOSE.
SO WE'VE ALREADY BEEN DOING THAT TWO HOURS NOW.
AND THEY SHOULD BE PARTIALLY COVERED WHILE THEY'RE COOKING.
AND THAT WAY ALL OF THE JUICES DON'T EVAPORATE AND YOU END UP WITH A DRIED... ...A DRIED BEAN IN THE POT.
AND YOU CAN SEE JUST HOW... ...HOW JUICY THEY ARE.
AND THERE'S YOUR EPAZOTE.
...THAT BRANCH OF EPAZOTE.
NOW WE'RE GOING TO PUT THOSE INTO THE BLENDER.
I'LL TAKE THE TOP OFF.
AND WHEN YOU'RE BLENDING ANYTHING THAT IS HOT BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO PUT THE TOP ON TIGHTLY.
MOST BLENDERS HAVE A REMOVABLE TOP PIECE.
THIS ONE DOES.
THIS ONE CERTAINLY DOES.
IN FACT, IT'S VERY EASY TO TAKE THIS ONE OUT.
AND THERE GOES ALL OF OUR BLACK BEANS.
AND YOU GET THE EARTHY SMELL OF THOSE DELIGHTFUL BEANS.
AND THEN, IN GO, TAKE THE TOP OFF... I'M GOING TO COVER THIS JUST LIGHTLY HERE.
[blender churning] AND THAT'S PRETTY MUCH IT.
WHY DO YOU TAKE THE TOP OFF AND PUT A TOWEL ON WHEN IT HAS A COVER?
YOU CAN SEE THAT SOME OF BEANS GOT ON THE TOWEL.
YEAH.
IF I LEFT THAT OFF IT MIGHT SPLASH UP.
BUT SUPPOSING YOU LEFT IT ON?
IF YOU DID THAT YOU CAN BLOW THE TOP RIGHT OFF... OH, I DON'T WANT THAT.
...BECAUSE THE STEAM EXPANDS IN THERE I SEE.
I SEE, AND BLOW THE LID RIGHT OFF.
SO THIS GIVES YOU A LITTLE AIR.
ABSOLUTELY.
I SEE.
NOW, THE TORTILLAS WE'RE GOING TO USE ARE SOME GOOD, FRESH-MADE CORN TORTILLAS -- NOT FLOUR TORTILLAS.
I PREFER TO BUY THE ONES THAT ARE WRAPPED IN PAPER RATHER THAN THE PLASTIC.
I ALWAYS DO IT BECAUSE IT USUALLY MEANS THAT THEY COME FROM A LOCAL PLACE AND THE ONES IN PLASTIC COULD BE MADE WHO-KNOWS-WHERE.
AND THEY TEND TO MADE WITH PRESERVATIVES I LOOK FOR ONES THAT HAVE A NICE FRAGRANCE.
THEY HAVE FRESHNESS TO THEM.
YOU CAN SEE HOW SOFT THEY ARE.
AND I THINK THAT REALLY GIVES THEM... WELL, THERE IS JUST AN AMAZING DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THESE AND THE ONES YOU GET IN... I WONDER WHAT CITY THESE COME FROM?
THESE COME FROM CHICAGO.
THERE'S TORTILLA FACTORIES ALL OVER THE UNITED STATES.
SO IT'S EASY TO GET TORTILLAS FROM A LOCAL FACTORY THAT ARE GOING TO HAVE A... JUST LOOK IN THE YELLOW PAGES.
THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT I DO.
EVERY TIME I GO TO ANY OTHER CITY AND I WANT TO BUY TORTILLAS.
I'LL TAKE A COUPLE OF THESE CORN TORTILLAS AND CUT THEM INTO HALF INCH STRIPS AND FRY THEM.
THEY'RE ACTUALLY BETTER IF THEY'RE A LITTLE STALE BECAUSE THEY'LL FRY UP QUITE A BIT CRISPER.
AND FOR CERTAIN MAKE SURE YOUR OIL IS HOT.
I ALWAYS PUT ONE IN TO SEE IF IT'S GOOD AND BUBBLY LIKE THAT.
WHAT OIL ARE YOU USING ON THIS?
I'M USING CORN OIL.
I LIKE THE FLAVOR OF THE CORN TORTILLAS THAT ARE FRIED IN THE CORN OIL.
AND YOU WANT THESE TO CONTINUE TO FRY UNTIL MOST OF THE BUBBLES HAVE STOPPED.
YOU CAN SEE ALREADY THAT THERE'S MUCH FEWER THAN THERE WERE WHEN WE FIRST PUT THEM IN.
AND THE SORT OF DRIER AND STALER YOUR TORTILLAS ARE THE QUICKER THEY'LL FRY.
THE CRISPER THEY'LL BE.
AND YOU'LL SEE EVEN LESS BUBBLES WHEN YOU FIRST PUT THEM IN THERE.
IF YOU KNEW YOU WERE GOING TO DO IT YOU COULD LAY THEM OUT ON A RACK OR SOMETHING.
YOU COULD, THAT'S WHAT I USUALLY DO.
JUST LAY THEM OUT FOR A FEW MINUTES AND THAT KIND OF DRIES THEM OUT.
YOU SEE, WE'VE FRIED A BUNCH MORE.
THAT'S 12 TORTILLAS IN TOTAL TO GO WITH THIS BLACK BEAN SAUCE.
HOW MANY IS THAT TO SERVE?
THIS WILL SERVE FOUR AS A LIGHT ENTREE, VEGETARIAN ENTREE.
OR IF YOU SERVE IT AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT IT'LL SERVE SIX TO EIGHT.
THAT IS NICE AND CRISP ISN'T IT?
YEAH, VERY NICE.
AND YOU CAN SEE THE COLOR THERE.
WE'VE GOT A BIG HEAVY POT AND YOU WANT TO CHOOSE A SKILLET OR A DEEP SKILLET LIKE THIS THAT'S ABOUT 12 INCHES ACROSS.
WE'LL PUT ALL OF OUR CRISPY TORTILLAS INTO THE POT AND THEN WE HAVE THE BLACK BEAN SAUCE ALREADY PUREED.
NOW THAT BLACK BEAN SAUCE IS PRETTY MUCH THE... A COARSE PUREE.
YOU DON'T WANT IT TO BE TOO SMOOTH -- YOU WANT TO GET SOME GOOD TEXTURE OUT OF IT.
AND IN GOES THE BLACK BEAN SAUCE.
AND THE EPAZOTE HAS BEEN PUREED WITH IT?
RIGHT.
ONE THING I DIDN'T TALK ABOUT WAS THE CONSISTENCY OF THAT SAUCE.
YOU WANT IT TO BE ABOUT THE CONSISTENCY OF... I'LL GET THAT OUT OF YOUR WAY.
...OF LIGHT CREAM SOUP.
AND MINE WAS JUST A LITTLE THICK SO I'M GOING TO STIR IN A BIT MORE BROTH.
YOU DON'T WANT THIS TO BE TOO THICK AT THE START BECAUSE THE TORTILLAS WILL ABSORB THAT SAUCE AND WE WANT THE TEXTURE TO BE FAIRLY LIGHT.
AND WE'VE GOT ONE MORE CHILE CHIPOTLE TO ADD TO THAT AT THIS POINT.
THIS IS A LITTLE PIECE OF ONE.
IT'S NOT EVEN A FULL CHILE THAT WE'RE GOING TO SLICE.
I'M GOING TO DO IT WITH THE ADOBO THAT IT'S PACKED IN, AND THE WHOLE SHEBANG.
AND IF YOU DON'T WANT IT TO BE SPICY AT ALL YOU DON'T HAVE TO PUT MORE OF THIS IN.
AND THE EPAZOTE LEAVES... THIS WILL BE A CHANCE TO REALLY TASTE THOSE IF YOU HAVE THESE EPAZOTE... NOW FOR PEOPLE WHO DON'T HAVE EPAZOTE... YOU COULD LEAVE IT OUT ENTIRELY IF YOU WISH.
OR YOU COULD PUT IN SOME SPRIGS OF CILANTRO.
I THINK WE'VE GOT SIX, SEVEN... EIGHT OF THESE LEAVES WE'LL PUT IN THERE.
AND THEN STIR IT ALL UP TO MIX AND WE'LL LET THIS COOK, IT DOESN'T TAKE VERY LONG.
IT DEPENDS ON WHAT YOUR HEAT IS.
WELL, THEN YOU UNCRISP THE TORTILLAS?
THAT'S CORRECT, YEAH.
THAT'S SORT OF STRANGE SOUNDING BUT IT'S ALWAYS WHAT CHILAQUILES ARE ABOUT... TO CRISP FRY THE TORTILLAS FIRST AND THEN TO SIMMER THEM UNTIL THEY BEGIN TO SOFTEN.
BUT THEY'VE HAD A DIFFERENT TASTE JUST FROM BEING FRIED, HAVEN'T THEY?
EXACTLY.
THERE'S A LOT OF THINGS AROUND THE WORLD WHERE PEOPLE WILL FRY THINGS AND THEN SOFTEN THEM IN A BROTH OR IN SOME SORT OF SAUCE.
OKAY, WE ARE GOING TO PUT THE INGREDIENTS FOR THE GARNISHES TOGETHER NOW.
WE HAVE SOME STRIPS OF THE CHIPOTLES ALREADY DONE.
WE'RE GOING TO USE SOME... THIS IS LIKE HOMEMADE SOUR CREAM, CREME FRAICHE THAT'S WHAT THEY USE ALWAYS IN MEXICO.
IT'S GOT A GOOD NUTTY TASTE TO IT.
VERY RICH, NOT TOO ACIDIC.
AN AVOCADO.
MY WAY OF DICING AN AVOCADO IS TO GO... DID AVOCADOS ORIGINATE IN MEXICO?
IN MEXICO, ABSOLUTELY.
THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT.
I GO STEM TO BLOSSOM CUTTING AROUND AND THEN TWIST.
AND WITH A SPOON... NOW FIRST I'VE GOT TO GET RID OF THE SEED.
WITH THE KNIFE LIKE THAT WELL, YOU CAN EVEN JUST SORT OF POP IT OUT AND THEN SCOOP OUT THE FLESH OF THE AVOCADO.
THESE ARE THOSE HASS AVOCADOS.
ARE THEY THE BEST?
PROBABLY NOT THE BEST FOR FLAVOR BUT THEY'RE CERTAINLY THE BEST TO WORK WITH.
ONCE THEY BECOME FULLY RIPE YOU CAN PUT THEM IN THE REFRIGERATOR FOR A WEEK OR MORE WITHOUT THEM DARKENING.
SHOW US HOW WE KNOW THAT THIS IS RIPE.
OH, JUST TOUCH -- IF IT GIVES A LITTLE BIT THEN YOU KNOW THAT IT'S READY.
IT GIVES JUST A LITTLE BIT -- YOU DON'T WANT IT TOO MUSHY AS A GARNISH.
THAT'S CERTAINLY RIPE.
SO WE'VE DICED THE AVOCADO.
WE'VE GOT ALL OF OUR GARNISHES.
AND WE'VE TALKED ABOUT ALL OF THEM EXCEPT FOR THE CHEESE.
LET'S GIVE THIS A QUICK STIR AND MAKE SURE IT'S NOT... IT'S READY TO GO.
WE'LL JUST TURN THAT COMPLETELY OFF.
CAN YOU SEE HOW THAT HAS THICKENED UP?
YES, IT HAS, VERY DEFINITELY.
BUT IT'S NOT GOTTEN TOO THICK.
THERE'S YOUR EPAZOTE LEAVES.
YOU CAN SEE THEM IN THERE.
AND THE LAST GARNISH IS THE QUESO ANEJO.
WHAT'S THAT?
THIS IS ACTUALLY A CHEESE FROM MEXICO.
IT'S MADE IN VERY MUCH THE SAME STYLE AS SORT OF PARMESAN... IT'S GOT THAT... OH, MM-HMM.
...BUT WHEN YOU TASTE IT IT IS A LITTLE BIT MORE LIKE A DRY FETA CHEESE.
IT'S GOT A GOOD TANG.
WHAT'S THE NAME OF IT?
QUESO ANEJO WHICH IN SPANISH MEANS "AGED CHEESE."
"AGED OLD CHEESE."
YEAH, EXACTLY.
I'M GOING TO GET THE PLATTER THAT I HAVE HERE FROM GUANAJUATO... NORTH CENTRAL MEXICO.
ISN'T THAT ANOTHER PRETTY PLATTER.
I LOVE THE CERAMICS THAT COME FROM MEXICO.
YOU'RE GOING TO START A TOURIST BOOM I HOPE SO.
EXCUSE ME, I'M GOING TO GRAB THE PAN.
NOW, THIS NEEDS TO BE PRESENTED IN A PLATTER THAT'S SOMEWHAT DEEP BECAUSE IT IS KIND OF SOFT.
NOW WE'RE GOING TO DRIZZLE OVER... YOU COULD JUST USE SOUR CREAM, TOO?
IF YOU USE SOUR CREAM IT'S PREFERABLE TO STIR IT UP WITH A LITTLE BIT OF MILK TO SOFTEN IT OR MAYBE SOME HEAVY CREAM.
THIS IS ABOUT A HALF CUP DRIZZLED OVER.
AND NOW THE CHEESE.
FAIRLY SALTY?
YEAH, VERY SALTY, IN FACT.
IT USED LIKE PARMESAN IN SMALL AMOUNTS JUST TO ADD THAT KIND OF A THING TO... NOW THESE ARE THE SAME... CHIPOTLE PEPPERS.
THESE ARE NOT SO HOT?
NO, THESE ARE QUITE HOT.
THEY'RE AS HOT AS A JALAPENO WOULD BE.
OH, MM-HMM.
AND LASTLY, THE DICED AVOCADO OVER THE TOP.
NOW, IF YOU'RE SERVING THIS BUFFET STYLE MAKE SURE YOU MAKE IT AT THE LAST MINUTE.
YOU CAN FRY THE TORTILLA STRIPS AHEAD OF TIME.
MAKE THE BLACK BEAN SAUCE AHEAD OF TIME.
PUT THE DISH TOGETHER, THAT FINAL SIMMERING RIGHT AT THE LAST MINUTE.
I'LL PUT ON A COUPLE LAST PIECES OF AVOCADO.
AND IT'S READY TO TAKE TO THE TABLE.
THAT'S LOVELY, RICK.
WELL, I THINK YOU'LL REALLY LIKE IT.
AS I SAID, IT'S A VERY SOULFUL KIND OF DISH AND IN SOME WAY SATISFIES A CERTAIN HUNGER THAT YOU CAN'T SATISFY IN ANY OTHER WAY.
A PRIMEVAL SOMETHING OR OTHER.
I HOPE SO.
THANK YOU.
YOU'RE WELCOME.
AFTER WE DID THAT OTHER BEAN DISH I TOLD RICK I'D LOVE TO SEE HOW HE MAKES REFRIED BEANS.
SO THAT IS WHAT WE'RE GOING TO HAVE, FRIJOLES REFRITOS.
REFRITOS, I WOULD BE VERY HAPPY TO SHOW YOU HOW TO DO IT.
IT'S A SIMPLE KIND OF PROCESS.
YOU CAN USE THE SAME BEANS THAT WE STARTED WITH.
IT'S GOT A BIT OF CHIPOTLE PEPPER SO IT WILL GIVE A LITTLE SPICINESS.
A LITTLE SMOKINESS TO IT.
AND IF YOU HAD THOSE BLACK BEANS COOKED WITH THAT EPAZOTE YOU'VE GOT A GREAT FLAVOR COMBINATION.
NOW, WE'VE COOKED THE BEANS ALREADY WITH HALF A WHITE ONION AND WE'RE GOING TO ADD ANOTHER HALF INTO THEM BY SAUTEING THAT FIRST.
WE'LL GIVE IT... THAT GREAT KNIFE OF YOURS.
YEAH, I LOVE THAT KNIFE.
IT'S FLAT ON THE BOTTOM SO IT'S... I'VE NEVER SEEN ONE LIKE THAT.
...IT'S QUITE EASY TO USE.
WE'LL PUT THOSE INTO THE SKILLET WITH A LITTLE BIT OF YOUR HOMEMADE RENDERED PORK FAT.
THIS IS SOMETHING WE SHOULD TALK ABOUT.
YES.
SOME PEOPLE ARE JUST SO TERRIFIED BY... LARD, NO!
THAT'S RIGHT.
NOW, NUMBER ONE, IF WE'RE TALKING ABOUT FLAVOR -- IT WILL GIVE THIS AN AUTHENTIC KIND OF FLAVOR THAT'S VERY TRADITIONAL IN ONE REGARD -- VERY RICH AND MEATY IN ANOTHER.
BUT ONE THING ABOUT PORK FAT IT HAS HALF THE CHOLESTEROL OF BUTTER.
I KNOW, WE'VE INQUIRED A LOT ABOUT THAT.
HALF THE CHOLESTEROL OF BUTTER BUT IT HAS MORE SATURATED FAT.
THAT'S RIGHT.
THEY ABOUT BALANCE EACH OTHER OFF.
I THINK THEY DO IT'S NOT SOMETHING TO BE... MOST OF US AREN'T COMPLETELY AFRAID OF BUTTER AND THE SAME SHOULD HOLD WITH PORK FAT BECAUSE IT'S SUCH A WONDERFUL OPTION.
IT'S A WONDERFUL FLAVOR.
BUT YOU COULD CERTAINLY USE VEGETABLE OIL.
BUT IT'S LIKE MAKING A TAMALE WITH OLIVE OIL RATHER THAN LARD.
IT'S JUST TERRIBLE.
IT WON'T GIVE YOU THE RIGHT FLAVORS.
NO.
THE RIGHT TEXTURES.
AND IT'S CERTAINLY NOT AUTHENTIC IN ITS FLAVOR IF YOU DO IT THAT WAY.
WELL, MY FEELING IS... IF YOU DON'T MAKE IT RIGHT, DON'T MAKE IT.
YES, RIGHT.
PICK SOMETHING ELSE.
WELL, AND ALL FOODS HAVE THEIR PLACE AND IF YOU WANT TO DO SOMETHING FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS AS WELL I KEEP SAYING TO EVERYBODY WE'RE TALKING ABOUT DIETS, NOT JUST SINGLE DISHES.
EXACTLY.
AND WE ALWAYS BALANCE THINGS OUT.
WHEN YOU HAVE A DISH THAT'S GOT HIGH FAT THEN YOU EAT A SALAD... OR AN APPLE.
...OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
COULD YOU STIR THAT FOR ME?
SURE, OKAY.
I'M GOING TO CHOP SOME GARLIC.
AND WE'VE GOT THIS GOOD COUPLE... YOU WANT THESE TO BROWN?
WE DO, YES.
THAT WILL GIVE IT THAT TOASTY, ROASTY FLAVOR.
I'M PEELING TWO LARGE CLOVES OF GARLIC BECAUSE I LIKE GARLIC.
THIS IS THE PURPLE GARLIC WHICH I THINK HAS SUCH A GREAT FLAVOR TO IT.
A BIT MORE PUNGENT THAN WHITE GARLIC.
AND WHEN YOU MAKE A GOOD SOUP OUT OF PURPLE GARLIC IN THE SPRINGTIME IT'S SUCH A TREAT.
MMM, I LOVE GARLIC SOUP.
AND ONCE THOSE ONIONS HAVE GOTTEN NICELY BROWNED... YOU SAW WE WERE DOING THAT OVER A FAIRLY HIGH FIRE.
YEAH, WELL, THIS IS NOT TOO HIGH.
AND I LIKE TO MINCE THE GARLIC QUITE FINE BECAUSE IT ONLY COOKS FOR A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.
AGAIN, EVERYONE MAKES THESE BEANS DIFFERENTLY.
THERE'S NO HARD AND FAST RULE IN TERMS OF PROPORTION.
IF YOU LIKE MORE GARLIC, ADD IT IN.
IF YOU LIKE LESS, PUT LESS IN.
BUT COOKING THE GARLIC MAKES IT... SOFTENS AND SWEETENS IT.
IT SWEETENS IT A LOT.
BUT IN THIS CASE -- IT ONLY COOKS FOR A SHORT TIME.
NOW THOSE ARE BROWN, AREN'T THEY?
YEAH.
IT'S VERY AROMATIC FROM THAT GARLIC.
AND LET ME SEE... REMEMBER THE EPAZOTE SPRIG THAT WAS IN THERE?
YEAH.
I WANT TO SEARCH IT OUT.
WE DON'T WANT THAT IN OUR REFRIED BEANS.
WELL, IT'S GIVEN ITS FLAVOR AND IT'LL JUST BE KIND OF STRINGY.
NOW, WITH A SLOTTED SPOON WE'LL TAKE THE BEANS OUT AND PUT THEM IN WITH THE ONIONS AND GARLIC.
WHAT MAKES THESE BEANS SO GOOD IS THE ONIONS AND GARLIC THAT HAVE BEEN BROWNED THERE.
AND EVEN THOUGH I USED TWO TABLESPOONS OF PORK FAT AS OUR FRYING MEDIUM THEY'RE NOT GOING TO COME OUT AS GREASY.
NO.
A LOT OF TIMES IN SOME RESTAURANTS YOU'LL FIND SOME SORT OF SHINY, GREASY AND I RELY MORE ON THE FLAVOR FROM A GOOD HOMEMADE RENDERED PORK FAT SO THAT A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY.
IT GIVES YOU THAT GOOD ROAST PORK FLAVOR WITHOUT HAVING TO ADD A LOT.
AND ALSO THE ONIONS AND GARLIC BOOST THE FLAVOR.
WHAT WE'RE DOING IS TO MASH IT WITH THE BACK OF A WOODEN SPOON.
THAT'S THE WAY I PREFER TO DO IT AT HOME.
YOU COULD USE A POTATO MASHER.
I'LL MOVE THIS SPOON OUT OF THE WAY AND THAT WILL USUALLY GO AT IT A LITTLE BIT MORE QUICKLY.
IT'S GETTING QUITE THICK.
WE'RE GOING TO ADJUST THAT BY ADDING BACK MORE OF THE COOKING BROTH.
WHEN DO YOU SERVE REFRIED BEANS?
YOU CAN SERVE IT AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT TO A SIMPLE MEAL JUST AS YOU WOULD MASHED POTATOES OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT.
OR MAYBE FOR BREAKFAST WITH EGGS OR... WITH EGGS, OH, I LIKE THAT.
LET'S PUT A LITTLE MORE OF THE BROTH BACK INTO IT.
STIR IT.
I LIKE THEM FAIRLY COARSE... LIKE THIS, NOT TOO PUREED.
I'D NEVER PUT THEM IN A FOOD PROCESSOR OR A BLENDER... OH, NO!
...IT TURNS THEM TO MUSH.
AND YOU WOULDN'T KNOW WHAT THEY WERE.
YOU WOULDN'T.
AND THEY'D TURN TO A PALE GRAY COLOR.
AND I LIKE THE FLAVOR OF THE BLACK BEANS SO MUCH AND PART OF THE ENJOYMENT OF EATING THEM IS JUST THE FACT THAT THEY'RE SO DARK.
SO EARTHY LOOKING.
THESE WILL TAKE ABOUT A TEASPOON OF SALT.
THAT'S BECAUSE THEY DIDN'T HAVE ANY SALT WHEN YOU COOKED THEM.
YOU NEVER COOK BEANS WITH SALT.
IF YOU DO, THEY'LL TEND TO TOUGHEN ON THE OUTSIDE BEFORE THEY'RE COOKED ALL THE WAY THROUGH.
OH, WELL THAT'S GOOD TO KNOW.
SO THE SALT IS ADDED IN THE END.
UNTIL THE VERY END, AND THEN YOU SEASON IT.
AND I THINK THEY'RE JUST ABOUT READY EXCEPT FOR THE GARNISHES.
I WANT TO CHECK OUR SEASONINGS.
I THINK THAT... I'LL HAVE A LITTLE TASTE OF THAT.
YOU CAN TASTE THE SMOKEY CHILE WHICH IS SORT OF UNUSUAL FOR THE FRIED BEANS.
MMM.
I'VE GOT ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL.... THAT IS GOOD.
GOOD.
I'VE GOT ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL PLATTER HERE.
THIS IS THE WAY TO SERVE THEM BUFFET OR PASS THEM FAMILY-STYLE AT THE TABLE.
PILE THEM UP THAT WAY.
AND THIS IS THE SAME CHEESE THAT WE USED ON THE CHILAQUILES... THE QUESO ANEJO.
GET A LITTLE OF THAT... CHEESE ANTIQUE OR OLD... THE OLD CHEESE.
AND THE ONE THAT'S GOT THAT SORT OF PUNGENT PARMESAN-LIKE.
COULD YOU SERVE THESE WITH SOUR CREAM?
OH, CERTAINLY, ACTUALLY, IT'S DONE MORE ON THIS SIDE OF THE BORDER THAN IT IS ON THE OTHER.
I COULD IMAGINE, YES.
OH, THAT'S NICE.
AND THEY ALMOST ALWAYS SERVE THE BEANS... AND ARE THESE THOSE SAME... ...THE SAME TORTILLAS, BUT CUT INTO TRIANGLES.
THEY HAVE A MUCH BETTER TASTE THAN THE STORE BOUGHT.
YES, THOSE ARE MADE WITH A VERY COARSE GROUND CORN AND THIS IS A VERY FINE GROUND CORN SO THESE COME OUT LIGHTER AND FLAKIER.
THAT'S LOVELY.
THEY ADD A SPECIAL CRUNCH AND TEXTURE THAT EVERYONE IN MEXICO CERTAINLY LIKES AND I KNOW THAT I DO.
WELL, THAT'S LOVELY.
I'VE ALWAYS WANTED TO KNOW HOW TO DO THOSE.
GOOD.
THANKS EVER SO MUCH.
OH, IT'S MY PLEASURE.
IT'S SUCH GREAT FUN TO BE HERE.
Julia: BON APPETIT.


- Food
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Television
Transform home cooking with the editors of Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street Magazine.












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